Home Improvement

Installation of laminate

Arrangement of the floor covering is a very important stage during the renovation. Since it is the quality of the coating that will depend on the comfort of staying and experiencing the area of ​​the rooms.

It is especially important that the coating is installed correctly, and this applies primarily to laminate. In this article, we will tell you how to properly lay laminate with your own hands.

Layout schemes

Laying the laminate with your own hands is possible in absolutely any convenient way for you, even diagonally, even straight, even at any angle. But there are three main methods of laying, which you must know about in order to choose the most suitable one before starting the installation.

So, the laminate can be laid as follows:

  • Laying laminate across the width of the room is the most common and popular method, as the boards are laid very evenly and qualitatively, and the joints are less noticeable.
  • It is carried out along the room in the event that the light falls from the side of the entrance to the room, then the joints will be less noticeable.
  • Laying laminate diagonally is the least used method. It is used exclusively at the request of the owners, it is refused due to the complexity of implementation.

For parallel installation, 5-7% more panels are required; for a diagonal, which requires multiple sawing, we take a margin of 15%.

  1. Preparatory work, we are preparing the basis

To understand how to lay the laminate evenly, you should approach the process carefully and prepare the base as much as possible. In this case, the initial quality will be maximum and will be able to please you for many years. Preparation must be carried out according to the following points:

  • Surface preparation (concrete, wooden or old linoleum and parquet).
  • Laying the substrate on the prepared surface.

Next, Sacramento ADU Builders will tell you about each of the points in more detail.

Concrete floor preparation

When laying laminate on a concrete base, be sure to level it beforehand. For this, you can use the system of poppies and simple sand-concrete mixtures, marked M350-M400. An excellent alternative to such mixtures will be bulk self-leveling floors, which perfectly perform their function and create an absolutely flat surface, which is no worse than a simple mixture of concrete and sand.

A flat surface is necessary so that during operation the laminate does not sag and lies tightly on the surface. Any pits and mountains will be very felt, which will cause creaks, crackles and other unpleasant nuances.

The finishing coating can be laid on a new concrete screed only after complete drying, 30 days after pouring.

We are preparing a wooden base

Leveling a wooden floor will not be as easy as concrete, but it will still be necessary to perform some manipulations. Check each board for cracks and sags, those that are already bad and sag heavily when pressed should be replaced, the same should be done with cracked or broken boards.

Make sure that all the boards are still fresh, there are no rotten and very wet ones, they should be replaced first of all, as excess moisture will only spoil the laminate and later many different pests, fungi, mold and other abominations that harm our health will breed there.

After the surface is secure, cover the joints with a special mastic for wood to prevent moisture from entering through the cracks. Then open the wood with paint or varnish, one layer is enough. After that, the surface will be ready for further actions.

We prepare linoleum or parquet

First of all, you need to visually assess the quality of the old coating. If it is still of good quality, but does not have the appearance you need, then you can proceed to the next stage of preparation. If the linoleum is already starting to crumble, the parquet is already very old, then it is best to completely dismantle them and replace everything with a poured floor.

If everything is in order, then we will start preparing the surface. To do this, we will need to clean it of all dirt and dust. If there are holes in the linoleum, then they must be closed with a suitable piece that is glued to the floor, and the joints must be closed with resin or bituminous mastic.

Parquet is prepared in a similar way, cleaned of dirt, and those areas that are not securely removed and re-glued. After that, you can continue the process of laying the laminate.

Lay the substrate

This happens very simply and quickly, you only need to purchase the necessary amount of substrate and simply spread it over the entire area of ​​the room. There are varieties with self-adhesive strips that reliably fix the substrate on the surface. But if there are none, then it is enough to spread it out, cut off the excess edges and wait a few hours for it to fit in and align itself on the floor.

It is advisable not to cover the entire floor with bedding at once, so as not to shake the dirt on it, but to do it in the process as needed.

3. Laminate laying sequence

Now you will finally learn how to lay laminate on your own. Any laminate is laid in a similar way, only the methods of fixing the strips on the surface of the floor and between each other differ. The general principle of stacking is as follows.

First you lay the first line, at the end you cut one of the rails, the remaining end will serve as the beginning of the next line, thus, the docking will be in checkerboard order and the connections will be of the highest quality. To prevent the laminate from deforming, insert small wedges between the panels and the wall, after complete installation, the wedges are removed and the plinth is screwed to them.

Laminate fixing procedure

To date, there are three methods of fixing laminate strips:

  1.  Laying on a special adhesive mixture – in this case, the strips cannot be combined with each other, but they are reliably fixed on the surface of the floor, which almost firmly fixes them. It is quite problematic to tear off such a laminate without damage.
  1. Installation in a groove with “Click” locks – the most common lock. It is a groove, on the other side there is a spike with a small hook, which enters the groove at an angle, then aligns and closes.
  2. Installation in a groove with “Lock” locks – the design is very similar to the Click system, but there is no hook. The groove has a curved shape and is hammered into the spike, after which it is reliably fixed there and it is quite problematic to disconnect such a laminate. At the same time, the groove and the spike are located in the opposite order, and it is installed on the spike in the groove, and vice versa, the groove is located on the spike.

Regardless of the method of fixing the laminate slats, it is necessary to constantly seal them together. For this, you should use an ordinary hammer and a small board or a special rubber mallet, which will allow you to seal and not damage the grooves.

You put the board to the edge of the laminate and lightly tap it, it is necessary to do this from each edge and in the middle, making two or three blows. Also, tapping should be done from the end of the rail. This procedure will help to seal the rails as much as possible and get rid of visible joints between them.

We put it next to the pipes, radiator and door

To install the rail near the pipe and cover it, it will be necessary to spoil the appearance a little, but as this edge will be located near the pipe, it will not be noticeable at all. To do this, cut off a small section in width, after that, on both sections, cut out a semicircle with a diameter equal to half the diameter of the pipe. Lay both segments on both sides, and the pipe will perfectly emerge from the surface of the laminate.

Under the radiator, the laminate is laid by the usual method, as in other places, if it is not possible to lay it under it, then cut it close to the radiator, then it will be necessary to either install a plinth in this place, or leave everything as it is, a tightly laid joint will not be very noticeable. Gaps in the pipes are designed with the help of outlines.

If the door has not yet been installed, then the laminate can be laid in a straight line, and after that the threshold will be adjusted under it. If the door is already standing and the threshold deviates from a straight line with the wall, then a recess corresponding to the threshold is cut in the strip of laminate. In this case, the joint between the threshold and the laminate will need to be closed with a putty of the appropriate color to hide the place of the cut.

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